How to Fix a Stripped Screw Hole in Wood
When a screw just spins and won’t tighten, the wood hole is “stripped.”
You don’t have to replace the whole piece of wood—this is an easy repair you can do in less than an hour.
Pro Tip: Before you start, decide how strong the repair needs to be.
For light jobs (like cabinet doors), simple fixes work. For heavy loads (like chair legs or shelves), use a stronger method like wood dowels or epoxy.
Common Reasons Screw Holes Strip
- Screw was over-tightened
- Screw is too small for the hole
- Soft wood (like pine) got crushed
- Hole was used and re-used many times
When the wood fibers are damaged, they can’t “grab” the screw threads anymore.
Your goal is to give the screw fresh wood or filler to bite into.
Tools
- Drill (or screwdriver)
- Drill bits (various sizes)
- Hammer (small is fine)
- Utility knife or sharp blade
- Wood glue or carpenter’s glue
- Wooden toothpicks, matchsticks, or skewers (for light duty)
- Wood dowel (for stronger repair)
- Wood putty or 2-part epoxy (optional method)
- Sandpaper (120–220 grit)
- Clamps (optional but helpful)
- Clean rag or paper towels
You do not need every item for every method.
Pick the method that fits your situation and see what tools it needs.
Method 1: Toothpicks or Matchsticks (Quick, Light-Duty Fix)
Best for: Cabinet doors, light hinges, trim, and small brackets.
Step-by-Step
-
Remove the screw
Carefully unscrew the old screw from the hole.
If it’s stuck, wiggle and pull while unscrewing, but don’t force it so hard that you strip the screw head. -
Clean out the hole
Pick out loose wood or dust with the tip of a screw or small nail.
You want a clean hole so the glue sticks well. -
Fill the hole with wood and glue
Squeeze wood glue into the hole.
Then push toothpicks or matchsticks into the hole as tightly as you can. -
Pack it tight
Tap the toothpicks in with a hammer until the hole is full and snug.
The idea is to stuff the hole solid with fresh wood and glue. -
Cut off the excess
Use a utility knife to cut the toothpicks flush with the surface.
Wipe away extra glue with a damp rag. -
Let the glue dry
Wait at least 30–60 minutes (longer is better, follow the glue bottle).
The drier the glue, the stronger the repair. -
Reinstall the screw
Drive the screw back in by hand or with a drill on low speed.
Stop as soon as it feels snug—do not over-tighten, or you’ll strip it again.
Method 2: Wood Dowel Plug (Stronger, Long-Lasting Fix)
Best for: Chair legs, table legs, handrails, shelves, or anything that holds weight.
Step-by-Step
-
Remove the screw and hardware
Take out the screw and remove the hinge, bracket, or hardware from the wood.
Set them aside so you don’t lose them. -
Drill the hole larger
Choose a drill bit the same size as your dowel (for example, 3/8" dowel = 3/8" bit).
Drill out the damaged hole straight and clean, going as deep as the old screw hole or slightly more. -
Cut a length of dowel
Measure and cut a piece of dowel slightly longer than the hole depth.
It’s okay if it sticks out a bit—you’ll trim it later. -
Glue in the dowel
Put wood glue inside the drilled hole and on the dowel.
Tap the dowel into the hole with a hammer until it bottoms out. -
Trim it flush
Once it’s seated, cut the dowel flush with the surface using a saw or utility knife.
Wipe away extra glue with a rag. -
Let glue cure fully
Wait several hours or overnight (follow glue instructions).
This is important for a strong, solid repair. -
Mark and drill a new pilot hole
Reposition your hardware and mark the screw location on the new dowel plug.
Drill a small pilot hole for the screw (about 60–70% of the screw’s thickness). -
Reinstall the screw
Drive the screw into the pilot hole until snug.
Do not over-tighten—stop as soon as it’s firm.
Method 3: Wood Filler or Epoxy (Hidden or Decorative Areas)
Best for: Areas that need to look clean or be painted, not for heavy loads by itself.
Step-by-Step
-
Remove the screw and clean the hole
Take out the screw and clean loose wood out of the hole.
Make sure the area is dry and dust-free. -
Mix filler or epoxy
If using 2-part epoxy, mix the two parts as the package says.
If using wood filler, stir it until smooth. -
Pack the hole with filler
Use a putty knife or small stick to press filler into the hole.
Slightly overfill the surface, because filler may shrink as it dries. -
Shape and smooth
Wipe off extra around the hole with a damp cloth or the putty knife.
Try to make the surface as smooth as you can now—it saves sanding later. -
Let it cure completely
Wait for full cure time (often several hours for filler, less for some epoxies).
It must be hard all the way through before you drill or screw. -
Sand the area
Lightly sand the patch smooth with fine sandpaper.
Wipe off dust. -
Drill a new pilot hole (if needed)
For better grip, drill a small pilot hole into the hardened filler/epoxy.
Keep it centered and straight. -
Install the screw
Drive the screw in slowly, stopping when it’s snug.
Do not over-tighten—epoxy is strong but can crack if abused.
When to Use Each Method
- Toothpicks / matchsticks: Fast, simple, good for light wear and small screws.
- Wood dowel plug: Best all-around repair for strength and durability.
- Wood filler / epoxy: Good when looks matter or you plan to paint, and for moderate loads.
If the wood itself is split, bent, or rotten, fixing the hole is only a temporary band-aid.
In that case, it’s better to replace the damaged wood piece if you can.
Extra Tips to Avoid Stripping Again
- Drill pilot holes before driving screws, especially in hardwood.
- Use the right screw size and type for the job.
- Don’t over-tighten—stop as soon as the screw head sits snug.
- Use a clutch setting on your drill (the adjustable torque ring) to avoid driving too hard.
With a bit of care and the right method, a stripped hole in wood is no big deal.
Do the repair once, the right way, and you’ll get many more years out of that piece.
